Be Susegad

India is a land with history where foreign conquerors established their supremacy in various parts of the country. Though these erstwhile rulers are now a part of the pages of our history, they have left their footprints in our country in form of their architecture, languages and culture, giving us an opportunity to walk back into the times when these powers dominated our nation. Having frequently appreciated British architecture in Mumbai, it was time to visit the state of India where the Portuguese ruled. We visited Goa, widely known today as the party capital of India. I had visited Goa as a child, but Goa has a changed a lot in the last few years. Going there again was something to look forward to, to feel if the changed face of Goa still brought any childhood memories back.

Several Bollywood films have glamourized Goa. Goa has more to offer than just parties. Idyllic beaches and vast expanse of coconut trees add to the beauty. To reach the erstwhile Portuguese home, we travelled by Tejas Express, a premium train offering flight-like experience. On the way to our hotel, we saw several houses painted in bright colours depicting the colourful, contented and susegad i.e. relaxed life the people lead. Since our hotel was in the vicinity of Calangute Beach, we headed to this ‘happening’ place in the evening. Swarming with people in every corner, this beach is lucrative to many who have set up restaurants and bars, ensuring good time to those who wanted to relax. To create an energetic atmosphere, famous dance tracks were playing thus strengthening the party mood. We walked on the beach enjoying the view of the sea and the people who enjoyed getting drenched along the waves. The bright orange evening sun was taking leave for the day promising to bring a sunshine full of hope the next day. As a child I thought that the sea swallows the sun when it sets. I felt nostalgic remembering the naivety of childhood.

Next day we set out to explore South Goa. Our first spot was Coco Beach, named after the large number of coconut trees that surround it. Sitting in a boat we had an amazing rendezvous with the dolphins who swam along the boat as if to build camaraderie with us and exhibited their stellar swimming skills. As we sailed in Coco Beach, we got views of the Old Portuguese jail, Aguada fort and millionaire palace. The old Portuguese jail looked ramshackle, having lost its former glory. The bungalow of a diamond merchant nestled in the greenery looked grandiose concurring to his rich status. The cool sea breeze while we sailed made it a soothing experience. Our next stop was Miramar Beach which gave me a déjà vu feeling of having visited it as a child and building sand castles with my sister. The almost white sand and the clear water reminded me of Bondi Beach in Sydney. Tall coconut trees act as welcoming entrance while walking towards Miramar Beach. Next we visited Dona Paula, where Mandovi and Zuari rivers meet the Arabian Sea.

In spite of having the image of a party hub, Goa is also home to religious faiths in form of beautiful churches and temples. We visited Balaji and Mangeshi Temple and sought blessings of the Almighty. Mangeshi is an incarnation of Shiva and also the deity of Mangeshkar family. The splendid architecture of the temple embellishes the divine presence of God. We experienced serenity in God’s own abode. To meet God in His next home and experience divinity again, we paid a visit to Basilica of Bom Jesus and Se Cathedral. Basilica of Bom Jesus is a UNESCO world heritage site and holds mortal remains of St. Xavier. It is said that the saint’s body is still fresh as the day it was buried. We got the view of the mortal remains of St. Xavier and it seemed that he was in a deep, peaceful sleep. The interior of the church is simple though it is guarded by strong altars. We experienced the same serenity inside the church in divine presence. This tall church and its intricate designs enthralled me. In the courtyard, we saw a beautiful view of the memorable day when Jesus was born in a shed-like structure surrounded by various animals. The statues of Mother Mary, Joseph and baby Jesus in a manger looked lifelike, letting us imagine that day when the Lord was born. The Se Cathedral, which stands opposite Basilica of Bom Jesus, was built by Portuguese to commemorate the victory of Afonso de Albuquerque, a Portuguese general against the Muslims. The Se Cathedral houses the ‘Golden Bell’ which is the largest in Goa. It is said that in the olden times the ring of this bell reached several kilometers and the villagers were notified of events through this bell. The Cathedral also houses an archaeological museum, where we saw stone scriptures in Marathi, Urdu and Persian excavated in different parts of Goa. It also explained the history of Goa. Outside the museum is a tall standing statue of Afonso de Albuquerque as if to welcome us to the historical times. Thus, we cherished the mesmerizing views of South Goa, learning something about the Portuguese rule and spending time with the beaches, attracting tourists like magnets.

Next day we visited North Goa. We started our day by visiting the Aguada Fort of the Portuguese which was built to guard against the Dutch and the Marathas. This fort provides a spectacular view of the fresh blue Mandovi river below. The word Aguada means ‘water place’ thus explaining its presence around the river. It also has a light house which looks pure white as if it was built yesterday. Not far from Aguada Fort, we visited Sinquerim beach next, which resembled like the one which we would see in Mauritius or other famous beaches in the world. The meeting of soothing blue water with the sand is a beautiful colour combination that one would see. Our next spot, the snow white Saligaon Church was located far away from the hustle and bustle of the city surrounded only and only by tranquility. The beautiful image of Mother Mary holding Jesus in her arms literally seems like God watching over all of us. Goa being a hub of beaches, we visited Baga, Anjuna and Vagator beaches where we saw people enjoying their vacation basking in the company of the sea. We ended our North Goa trip with Chouranginath temple, again an incarnation of Lord Shiva, relaxing ourselves in the composure of the temple.

We felt the Portuguese presence wherever we saw boards in various shops in Portuguese language. It showed that the Portuguese roots are still firm in Goa where people are descendants of Portuguese heritage.  Attracting tourists all over the world, we saw many foreigners exploring Goa on bikes and on foot getting the tan that they needed. On the journey back home, we met a couple from New Zealand, a German woman and a New Zealander man who had come to visit Goa along with their children. It was a pleasure to converse with the woman in German and she had a gleeful look to know that an Indian could speak her language. I feel proud about our nation where tourists come from all corners of the world to explore our rich heritage. The world is wonderfully connected with the mobility options and of course the internet prompts us to visit a different city or country. I wondered about the time when the Portuguese discovered and invaded Goa when none of the modern amenities were present. I think it was only their zeal and curiosity which encouraged them to travel for days and months together to reach a faraway land where everything was new and foreign, be it people or the landscape. They came, they saw and they conquered. It was a challenge that they accepted and made a mark in our history. We bade goodbye to the party capital where beaches, churches and temples provided us respite from monotony and taught us to be susegad in life.