India is a land with history
where foreign conquerors established their supremacy in various parts of the
country. Though these erstwhile rulers are now a part of the pages of our
history, they have left their footprints in our country in form of their
architecture, languages and culture, giving us an opportunity to walk back into
the times when these powers dominated our nation. Having frequently appreciated
British architecture in Mumbai, it was time to visit the state of India where
the Portuguese ruled. We visited Goa, widely known today as the party capital
of India. I had visited Goa as a child, but Goa has a changed a lot in the last
few years. Going there again was something to look forward to, to feel if the
changed face of Goa still brought any childhood memories back.
Several Bollywood films have glamourized
Goa. Goa has more to offer than just parties. Idyllic beaches and vast expanse
of coconut trees add to the beauty. To reach the erstwhile Portuguese home, we
travelled by Tejas Express, a premium train offering flight-like experience. On
the way to our hotel, we saw several houses painted in bright colours depicting
the colourful, contented and susegad
i.e. relaxed life the people lead. Since our hotel was in the vicinity of
Calangute Beach, we headed to this ‘happening’ place in the evening. Swarming
with people in every corner, this beach is lucrative to many who have set up
restaurants and bars, ensuring good time to those who wanted to relax. To
create an energetic atmosphere, famous dance tracks were playing thus
strengthening the party mood. We walked on the beach enjoying the view of the
sea and the people who enjoyed getting drenched along the waves. The bright
orange evening sun was taking leave for the day promising to bring a sunshine
full of hope the next day. As a child I thought that the sea swallows the sun
when it sets. I felt nostalgic remembering the naivety of childhood.
Next day we set out to explore
South Goa. Our first spot was Coco Beach, named after the large number of
coconut trees that surround it. Sitting in a boat we had an amazing rendezvous
with the dolphins who swam along the boat as if to build camaraderie with us
and exhibited their stellar swimming skills. As we sailed in Coco Beach, we got
views of the Old Portuguese jail, Aguada fort and millionaire palace. The old
Portuguese jail looked ramshackle, having lost its former glory. The bungalow
of a diamond merchant nestled in the greenery looked grandiose concurring to
his rich status. The cool sea breeze while we sailed made it a soothing
experience. Our next stop was Miramar Beach which gave me a déjà vu feeling of
having visited it as a child and building sand castles with my sister. The
almost white sand and the clear water reminded me of Bondi Beach in Sydney. Tall
coconut trees act as welcoming entrance while walking towards Miramar Beach. Next
we visited Dona Paula, where Mandovi and Zuari rivers meet the Arabian Sea.
In spite of having the image of a
party hub, Goa is also home to religious faiths in form of beautiful churches
and temples. We visited Balaji and Mangeshi Temple and sought blessings of the
Almighty. Mangeshi is an incarnation of Shiva and also the deity of Mangeshkar
family. The splendid architecture of the temple embellishes the divine presence
of God. We experienced serenity in God’s own abode. To meet God in His next
home and experience divinity again, we paid a visit to Basilica of Bom Jesus
and Se Cathedral. Basilica of Bom Jesus is a UNESCO world heritage site and
holds mortal remains of St. Xavier. It is said that the saint’s body is still
fresh as the day it was buried. We got the view of the mortal remains of St.
Xavier and it seemed that he was in a deep, peaceful sleep. The interior of the
church is simple though it is guarded by strong altars. We experienced the same
serenity inside the church in divine presence. This tall church and its
intricate designs enthralled me. In the courtyard, we saw a beautiful view of
the memorable day when Jesus was born in a shed-like structure surrounded by
various animals. The statues of Mother Mary, Joseph and baby Jesus in a manger
looked lifelike, letting us imagine that day when the Lord was born. The Se
Cathedral, which stands opposite Basilica of Bom Jesus, was built by Portuguese
to commemorate the victory of Afonso de Albuquerque, a Portuguese general
against the Muslims. The Se Cathedral houses the ‘Golden Bell’ which is the
largest in Goa. It is said that in the olden times the ring of this bell
reached several kilometers and the villagers were notified of events through
this bell. The Cathedral also houses an archaeological museum, where we saw
stone scriptures in Marathi, Urdu and Persian excavated in different parts of
Goa. It also explained the history of Goa. Outside the museum is a tall
standing statue of Afonso de Albuquerque as if to welcome us to the historical
times. Thus, we cherished the mesmerizing views of South Goa, learning
something about the Portuguese rule and spending time with the beaches,
attracting tourists like magnets.
Next day we visited North Goa. We
started our day by visiting the Aguada Fort of the Portuguese which was built
to guard against the Dutch and the Marathas. This fort provides a spectacular
view of the fresh blue Mandovi river below. The word Aguada means ‘water place’
thus explaining its presence around the river. It also has a light house which
looks pure white as if it was built yesterday. Not far from Aguada Fort, we
visited Sinquerim beach next, which resembled like the one which we would see
in Mauritius or other famous beaches in the world. The meeting of soothing blue
water with the sand is a beautiful colour combination that one would see. Our
next spot, the snow white Saligaon Church was located far away from the hustle
and bustle of the city surrounded only and only by tranquility. The beautiful
image of Mother Mary holding Jesus in her arms literally seems like God
watching over all of us. Goa being a hub of beaches, we visited Baga, Anjuna
and Vagator beaches where we saw people enjoying their vacation basking in the
company of the sea. We ended our North Goa trip with Chouranginath temple,
again an incarnation of Lord Shiva, relaxing ourselves in the composure of the
temple.
We felt the Portuguese presence
wherever we saw boards in various shops in Portuguese language. It showed that
the Portuguese roots are still firm in Goa where people are descendants of
Portuguese heritage. Attracting tourists
all over the world, we saw many foreigners exploring Goa on bikes and on foot
getting the tan that they needed. On the journey back home, we met a couple
from New Zealand, a German woman and a New Zealander man who had come to visit
Goa along with their children. It was a pleasure to converse with the woman in
German and she had a gleeful look to know that an Indian could speak her language.
I feel proud about our nation where tourists come from all corners of the world
to explore our rich heritage. The world is wonderfully connected with the
mobility options and of course the internet prompts us to visit a different
city or country. I wondered about the time when the Portuguese discovered and
invaded Goa when none of the modern amenities were present. I think it was only
their zeal and curiosity which encouraged them to travel for days and months
together to reach a faraway land where everything was new and foreign, be it
people or the landscape. They came, they saw and they conquered. It was a
challenge that they accepted and made a mark in our history. We bade goodbye to
the party capital where beaches, churches and temples provided us respite from
monotony and taught us to be susegad in
life.
